In this post, I will show you which hoop is best for punch needle embroidery.
Find out what type of hoops don’t work well and why they don’t work for punch needle.
Learn which hoop option is good, which is better, and which one is the best choice for punching.
Watch the Video:
Regular Embroidery Hoops:
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With a spring tension embroidery hoop,
you can get the weavers cloth tight before you start punching.
But once you start punching, the weavers cloth starts to sag right away.
You need the weavers cloth to be drum tight for punching,
so that just won’t work!
What about a traditional smooth edged embroidery hoop?
This type of embroidery hoop is usually made with either plastic or wood.
They have smooth edges with no lip or groove
and will usually have a screw to tighten the fabric in the hoop.
I found it hard to get the weavers cloth drum tight in this embroidery hoop,
but I did get it fairly tight.
When I started punching, almost immediately the fabric started sagging.
No-Slip Hoops:
As with any hoops, the Morgan no-slip hoops come in a variety of sizes.
They all have a wing nut you can use to tighten the fabric in the hoop.
The no-slip hoops have a lip on one side of the hoop
and a groove on the other side.
When the two pieces fit together, it forms a lock to help hold the fabric in place.
After putting the weavers cloth in the no-slip hoop and getting it drum tight,
you can punch for quite a while without the fabric sagging.
When it does eventually sag, (and it will)
you can just retighten the weavers cloth and keep on punching.
No-Slip Lap Stand:
You can also get a lapstand with the no-slip hoops.
The no-slip lap stands include two different sizes of hoops
that each have the locking lip and grooves.
I like these lap stands because since they have a stand
you don’t have to hold the hoop while you are punching.
You can set it in your lap or on a table.
It is also easier to get the weavers cloth tighter in the lap stands
because you can use both hands since you don’t have to hold onto the hoop.
Like with the no-slip hoops, you will sometimes
have to re-tighten the weavers cloth when punching with the lapstands.
Gripper Strip Frame:
A gripper strip frame has strips of metal gripper teeth along each edge
that will grab the weavers cloth and keep it drum tight.
These are the same type of frames that are used in rug hooking.
My frame has a peek-a-boo hole in the bottom so you can turn the frame over
to easily see your punching progress (since you work from the back).
Once you get the weavers cloth drum tight in the gripper strip frame,
it will stay tight during punching until you take the fabric off the frame.
There is no need to re-tighten the weavers cloth when you are using a gripper strip frame.
Price Comparison:
The no-slip hoops are the most economical option.
They are great for a beginner and the budget conscious crafter.
The no-slip lapstands are more expensive than the hoops,
but you do get two different sizes of hoops in the package.
These are a good option for someone who plans to punch a lot or who does other needlework.
As with most things in life, the best choice will cost you the most money.
I would recommend getting the gripper strip frame if you are going to be doing both rug hooking and punch needle
or you know you will be doing a lot of punch needle projects.
I hope you found this comparison of punch needle hoops helpful.
Be sure to check out the other supplies you will need for punch needle
and our Beginner’s Guide to Punch Needle ebook.
Blessings~
Amy
Pin this Punch Needle Tutorial:
